They killed my restaurant.” This was one of the first comments Chef Guilherme Spalk, 30, received when he tried to make changes to the Via Graça menu. He had been at the restaurant for a few months, invited by the owner, João Bandeira, and at the end of 2019 they decided together to give new life to the classic Lisbon restaurant’s menu. The reception from some regular customers wasn’t the best. They wanted to keep enjoying the usual dishes and weren’t ready for such a revolution on the menu.
Although the first attempt at change—which was only on the menu—didn’t go well, Guilherme Spalk and João Bandeira renewed their belief that it was possible to give Via Graça a fresh start. In January of this year, the restaurant closed for extensive renovations. Nine months later, it reopened with the same iconic view of Lisbon and some classic dishes back on the menu.
Excerpt from “NIT” / by Adriano Guerreiro